Forget New England – Japan is the perfect autumn destination

The leaves turn golden in the land of cherry blossom too, and now is the perfect time to see them

Cherry blossom time in Japan is – with good reason – famous the world over. For the Japanese, however, autumn is equally important and enjoyed just as much as it is in New England, where leaf peeping is almost a national sport. Maples are key to both regions – on the US east coast, the hillsides are ablaze with sugar (the source of maple syrup), red, black and other indigenous maples. It’s a great, glorious shout of autumn colour and there are leaf-peeping radio stations and social media alerts so enthusiasts can drive to the best viewing spots in such states as Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire and Connecticut, staying along the way in white clapboard towns cute as cupcakes and full of shops selling Shaker-style quilts and rocking chairs built for sleepy porches.
Japan has a rather different approach when it comes to maple leaf hunting (the literal meaning of momijigari). Some 70 per cent of this country is covered in forest but Japan is also a place where the contemplation of natural beauty has been elevated to an art form. In parks and gardens, shrines and temples, armies of dedicated gardeners work to create autumn colour to be admired at the peak of its perfection. This is a concept embedded deep within Japanese culture. In the Shinto religion, nature itself is sacred, while in the country’s other main religion, Zen Buddhism, experiencing the moment is central to understanding the ephemeral nature of life. What, then, could better symbolise autumnal poignancy than the fleeting beauty of a scarlet leaf falling from a tree?
It’s not just the mindsets that are different, though. Japanese maples are smaller than the US species and have more delicate, deeply serrated leaves. Skilfully arranged around ponds, shrines and bridges with backdrops of ancient castles and tumbling waterfalls, the maples turn scarlet, orange, bronze and purple. They are not, though, the only trees putting on a show. The gingko (one of the oldest species in the world) glows butter yellow. The Stewartias, rowans, zelkovas, chestnuts, cherries and larches turn red and purple, golden and orange. Truly, there are moments when you feel as if you’re walking through a painting.
Momijigari has been around for a very long time. It is thought to have begun at around the end of the eighth century, when the custom among the aristocracy was to hold outdoor banquets, where the autumn leaves acted as an inspiration for their finest poetry. It has been growing in popularity ever since, so much so that, especially in the top spots such as Kyoto (so popular that megaphones have, on occasion, been required to keep the crowds moving), it might be hard to achieve your moment of Zen-like appreciation. There are, however, less visited regions where you can savour that exquisite autumn colour and achieve autumnal inner peace. Prepare yourself for an autumn as lovely as Vermont’s – with added mindfulness.
Despite the crowds, a serious momijigari trip really does have to include Kyoto. After that, it’s easy to get off the beaten track, and to discover the country’s fascinating history and unique culture via your momijigari trail. There are some fantastic foliage-focused tours on offer (see “how to do it”), but Japan is also a very easy place to explore independently. They drive on the left (as we do), road signs are in English, and Japanese trains are famous for their reliability. You can even travel hands-free if you use Japan’s unique (and ubiquitous) Ta-Q-Bin service to send your luggage ahead for you (kuronekoyamato.co.jp).
If you do plan to go it alone, this gentle two-week itinerary makes for a sound introduction to the delights of momijigari. Just don’t forget your camera.
Arrive in Tokyo and combine a first glimpse of leaf peeping with city sightseeing. Highlights include the Edo-period (1603-1868) Hama-rikyu Gardens, where glorious autumn foliage surrounds a floating teahouse on the edge of Tokyo Bay. Asakusa Kannon Temple (aka Senso-ji) is the city’s oldest (completed in 645) and its entrance is lined with one of the city’s oldest shopping streets (Nakamise) selling traditional snacks and hiring out kimonos for photo ops – you’ll spot plenty of locals kitted out thus. For a great view of Tokyo’s Technicolor nightlife, have a drink at Cé la vi Tokyo (celavi.com/en/tokyo), the rooftop bar on the 17th floor of Tokyu Plaza Shibuya, before heading out for a traditional ramen in one of the tiny cafés in the surrounding streets. Shiba Park Hotel (shibaparkhotel.com) has double rooms from Y45,000 (£235) per night.
When in Japan, one really must ride the Shinkansen (bullet train). It takes just over two hours to travel from Tokyo to Kyoto – the country’s most famous place for autumn colour. Top spots include Tōfuku-ji Temple, spanned by three bridges; Ginkaku-ji Temple, regarded as one of Kyoto’s most beautiful gardens; and the maple-filled mountainsides of the village of Takao. In Nara – less than an hour away by train – you’ll find Todai-ji, the home of the giant Buddha, and the colourful Kasuga Taisha Shinto shrine, as well as the Botanical Gardens of the same name, where you can see the plants described in the Manyōsh, Japan’s oldest collection of poems. In Nara Park, you can enjoy the autumn foliage alongside the hundreds of deer that are keen to play with visitors. Stay at Hotel Higashiyama (tokyuhotelsjapan.com), with doubles from Y25,000 (£130) per night.
Another day, another bullet train, this time from Kyoto to Hiroshima (1 hour, 44 minutes), a surprisingly beautiful city, with a riverside park that’s filled with autumn colour. The Atomic Bomb Dome and Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park are a haunting reminder of the last days of the Second World War. Visit romantic Miyajima island (home to the Itsukushima Shrine, a World Heritage Site), famed for its autumn colour and its torii gate floating on the sea. Take a short train ride to Kuba station and stay in a Simose Art Garden Villa, on the edge of the Seto Inland Sea, a modern ryokan with its own beautiful gardens and floating art gallery (artsimose.jp) with villas, from Y100,000 (£523) per night, including dinner, breakfast and drinks.
Take the train from Hiroshima to Saijo station (36 minutes) and, for a different take on local culture, visit the traditional Kamotsuru Sake Brewery for a tour (and enjoy the tastings – there’s a different kind of sake to suit every dish). Then take the train on to Mihara (36 minutes), where you’ll catch the fast ferry to Ikuchi island (25 minutes) and stay at the exquisite ryokan Azumi Setoda (azumi.co/setoda; double rooms from Y85,000 [£445] per night with breakfast). Here, you’ll find extremely comfortable yukatas (casual kimonos) in your room to wear for breakfast and dinner, as well as a beautiful bath house for traditional Japanese bathing (always use the showers first). The next morning, it’s a short walk to the Buddhist Kousan-ji Temple, built in 1936 by a local industrialist and dedicated to his mother. Its Cave of 1,000 Buddhas is extraordinary, and its Hill of Hope (built with white Carrara marble) has astonishing views of the autumn colour in the mountains.
Take the ferry back to Mihara, then the train onwards to coastal city Fukuyama (27 minutes) and visit the Shinshoji Zen Temple, where you can try a traditional Buddhist temple lunch (matcha tea and the fattest udon noodles you’ve ever seen) in the teahouse of Sen no Rikyu. The temple’s beautiful gardens are blessed with a striking display of rich maple colour mixed with the very earliest, pure white blossoms of the winter-flowering cherry. As I drank this in, an elderly Japanese lady passed by and smiled: “Enjoy our beautiful Japanese culture.”
From here, it’s a 90-minute Shinkansen on to Osaka, where the Yamamoto Noh Theatre provides an opportunity for total immersion in Japanese culture. Spend the night at the Osaka Marriott Miyako Hotel (marriott.com; rooms from Y25,200 [£132] per night).
Take the train back to Tokyo (2 hours, 24 minutes), and fly home.
Japan Airlines flies to Tokyo twice a day from Heathrow; returns from £962 (jal.co.jp)
Inside Japan Tours (insidejapantours.com) has the 14-night self-guided Autumn Splendour trip from £2,810 per person, including accommodation, breakfast and three dinners, all transport between destinations, a seven-day Japan Rail Pass, a Manaca transport card for city transport, an eight-hour private guide service in Tokyo and Kyoto, a group tea ceremony experience in Kyoto, a half-day cycling ride in Takayama, and a pocket Wi-Fi device. International flights extra.
Titan Travel (titantravel.co.uk) has the 14-day Essence of Japan trip from £5,295 per person, including 17 excursions and visits, 13 meals and international flights. Departs Nov 20 2024.
Japan Experience (japan-experience.com) has the 13-day Discover Japan trip from £2,405 per person, including airport transfers, prepaid public transport card, seven-day Japan Rail Pass, luggage forwarding, English-speaking guides, all meals (except free days and half of the dinners) and Wi-Fi. International flights extra. Departs Nov 2 2025.
Great Rail Journeys (greatrail.com) has the 14-day Jewels of Japan trip from £4,795 per person, including all rail and coach travel, accommodation, group luggage transfers between hotels, excursions, breakfast, four dinners and international flights.
For more info, see japan.travel

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